(Neocaridina davidi)
The Basics
Nano tanks, aquariums that do not take up much space, yet can still be packed full of life, have become all the rage in the past few years. One of the most popular livestock choices for these smaller freshwater aquariums are cherry shrimp. Despite their name, cherry shrimp (Neocaridina davidi) come in a variety of colors, hues, and patterns. With varying shades of reds, blues, greens, yellows, oranges, whites, and blacks, you can find just about every color of the rainbow when it comes to cherry shrimp. There are many species of shrimp, but if you’re looking for something easy to care for, look no further than the cherry shrimp.
With adults growing to be just over an inch long, cherry shrimp don’t require a large aquarium to thrive. While a freshwater aquarium of at least five gallons or larger is recommended to keep a breeding colony of these shrimp, it is possible to keep a few shrimp in even smaller aquariums.
Getting Set Up
Cherry shrimp are not fussy when it comes to water parameters.
- Aim for a pH of 6.5-8, a temperature between 65-80F, and a GH of 4-12.
- These hardy invertebrates can adapt to a range of conditions, but will thrive in the middle of these ranges.
- Stable water parameters are more important than specific numbers; a higher pH of 7.9 is better than a pH that fluctuates from 7 to 7.5, for example.
A cherry shrimp aquarium can be as simple as a plain glass tank with a small filter and something to hide in, but most prefer to keep them in a fully planted aquarium. Having lots of plants and/or decorations gives the shrimp more surface area to explore and feed from and prevents them from becoming stressed. A heater may not be necessary if your aquarium is in a heated room, but may be beneficial if temps fluctuate, or stay on the cooler side.
The most important part of a shrimp set up is to make sure the tank is fully cycled before adding any shrimp. All invertebrates, including shrimp, are sensitive to the ammonia and nitrite that are produced in cycling aquariums. Shrimp also feed on biofilm, the layer of beneficial bacteria that grows over surfaces in a fully cycled aquarium. It takes about a month to cycle an aquarium, so be sure to test your aquarium water before adding your first shrimp.
Feeding
While the layer of biofilm provides a constant food source, you’ll want to supplement your shrimp’s diet regularly, especially if you have a large number of shrimp.
- A good quality pellet or mixed food will provide the essential nutrients your shrimp need, in the correct amounts, and should be the staple of their diet.
- In a planted tank, dead leaves from your plants can provide an extra source of food.
- You can also add dried botanicals like almond leaves to provide more biofilm and simulate a more natural environment.
- Vegetables and occasional protein will round off your shrimp’s diet.
- Leafy greens such as spinach, as well as zucchini, and squash or pumpkin will be enjoyed, though we recommend blanching them first to soften them.
- Frozen baby brine shrimp and blood worms provide a good source of occasional protein.
- Uneaten food should be removed by the next day to keep the water clean.
Maintaining Your Shrimp
Maintenance on a shrimp aquarium is fairly simple. As with any aquarium, your nitrate levels will tell you when a water change is needed; while higher levels can be tolerated, keeping them under 20ppm is ideal. Smaller, more frequent water changes (10-25%) are ideal, compared to larger changes that may cause stress and change water parameters too much.
Cherry shrimp require minerals, particularly calcium and magnesium, in order to molt, or shed, their exoskeleton and grow a new one. One of the most common causes of shrimp death is failed molting, which is almost always caused by a lack of these minerals (usually detected as a GH below 4). Shrimp mineral supplements, in either liquid or blocks, as well as cuttlebone or crushed coral/aragonite, can restore these necessary minerals.
By Dan Donaghue
